The Heart of South African Mullet Fishing in Ebenhaeser
Every day, when the weather permits, small wooden boats known as bakkies glide along the Olifants River. These vessels typically carry two people. One person lifts a weighted, two-meter wooden pole with a 35 to 45-meter drift net attached, and then lowers it into the water. The other person rows away, unfurling the net. After that, they either float with the current or anchor themselves to the riverbank.
The drift nets are specifically designed to catch South African mullet, commonly referred to as harders. This method has been part of the Ebenhaeser community’s tradition for generations.
A Legacy of Resilience and Tradition
The ancestors of today’s Ebenhaeser residents originally settled here after being displaced from the Lutzville area in 1925. They were farmers and fishers, and their way of life has remained deeply connected to the land and the river.
Salvester Don, a fourth-generation fisher, began fishing full-time in 1996. During the 2000s, he was actively involved in the fight for small-scale fisher rights. Today, he serves as the chairperson of Ebenhaeser’s small-scale fishing cooperative.
Like other cooperatives on the West Coast, Ebenhaeser receives an annual allocation of high-value rock lobster, which they catch in Elands Bay. However, Don believes that harder fishing holds greater significance for the community.
“It’s the cheapest food. If you have ten harders and a loaf of bread, you can braai the fish and have a nice meal,” he says.
Weather and the Art of Fishing
Certain weather conditions can make it difficult to catch harders. “We believe that when the east wind blows for a few days and then stops, there will be fish. But when it’s cloudy or rainy, the fish swim deeper, and because our nets are only two meters deep, the fish swim under the nets,” he explains.
On mornings that aren’t ideal for fishing due to weather or tides, fishers still often walk along the riverbanks. “It’s not just about fishing for us. In the mornings when there is no wind, the river is peaceful. You see the birds and the otters, and it calms your mind,” says Don.
Some fishers even go out to drop their nets when conditions aren’t favorable. The river is visible from many homes in Ebenhaeser. When people see someone pulling up their net with fish, they often join in. They either eat the fish they catch at home or sell them for income.
“Fishing is like an adventure for a fisher. When a fisher gets a fish in his net, it’s like he goes mad, and he just wants to catch more,” says Don.
Navigating Bureaucracy and Building a Future
Don and a few other cooperative members spend significant time dealing with government agencies such as the Department of Forestry, Fisheries and Environment (DFFE), the South African Maritime Safety Authority (SAMSA), and the Companies and Intellectual Properties Commission. They must ensure their permits are in order, their boats are seaworthy, and all necessary paperwork for the cooperative is properly maintained.
The cooperative has ambitious plans to make Ebenhaeser the hub for harder fishing in their area. They are exploring ways to process the fish in the village before selling it, aiming to cut out middlemen.
“If people want to buy harders, they must come to us,” says Don.
A New Generation Takes the Helm
With his responsibilities for the cooperative, Don doesn’t get to experience the thrill of fishing as much as he would like. His son, Stewart, has taken over the fishing duties. Watching him develop as a fisher brings Don immense pride.
“Other fishers tell me that they can see how good he is getting. It’s because of how I taught him,” he says, smiling proudly.